Most people, however, just assume it won't happen to them. Until it does,
they won't prepare, and when it does, they are too shocked to be effective
in action.  By being aware and prepared, you stand a much better chance of
escaping a confrontation with your life and health intact than someone who
has no preparation.  Obtaining skill in self-defense is of paramount
importance to anyone concerned about crime, and definitely to anyone who
owns a firearm for defense.

At the very least, you (and anyone else in the household who may have
cause to use the gun) should attend a gun safety course, so that you may
learn to handle a gun safely.  A basic marksmanship course is also good to
introduce novices to firearms, although although most of the techniques
used in slowfire pistol and rifle marksmanship are not directly applicable
to combat. There are classes in "practical combat", generally geared for
competition.

Although at first glance these may seem useful, but in reality many of the
techniques presented in these courses can get you killed in the real
world.  In competition, you are shooting for points, you (usually) know
the scenario and who to shoot, and the targets never, ever, shoot back.
In real life, you shoot at moving ta rgets who are likely as not to shoot
back.  The bad guys do not wear black hats, and hitting "innocents" will
cost you more than a point deduction.  You are likely to be in conditions
that you would not have chosen, and the perpetrators are likely to have
the advantage of surprise.  Bulls-eye accuracy is not usually required as
most encounters happen within 7 yards, and your biggest concern is not
shooting the perps, but keeping from being shot yourself.  Bear this in
mind when looking for a training course.

There are a few courses, mostly oriented toward women (although they are
good for anyone) that stress combat skills and put students in quasi-real
situations.  Check with local pistol ranges, and police departments, on
the programs available in your area.

If you are unable to find a training course that suits you then below are
a few suggestions on how to go about training yourself. This is by no
means an inclusive list of techniques, but should be enough to get you
started.  The techniques below are intended for handguns, but can be
adapted to longarms as well.

First of all, always use paper targets when training.  Targets don't lie.
A cardboard box makes a pretty good stand, and the cheap orange "pastie"
targets that can be had at department stores work well for informal
shooting.  If you like, you can use smiley faces or Barney stickers
instead.

You want to train to use the gun at the longest distance that you expect
to use it at.  If the gun is for home defense, then you should practice
for the longest straight line distance in your house.  If you intend to
carry the gun with you, then 25 yards is a practical maximum for a pistol.
You will want to practice both aimed and "unaimed" fire.

Before you go to the range practice dry-firing for a few sessions.  Always
make certain that the gun is unloaded (check it at least three times, and
if you are working with someone else, have them check it too), and that
you are pointing the gun in a safe direction.  Pay attention to how the
gun moves when you squeeze the trigger.  If it jerks to the left or the
right, then you are jerking the trigger, or your grip is not solid.  Aim
at a point on the wall (make sure you are aiming in a safe direction) and
squeezing the trigger, check how the well the sights stay aligned.
Continue practicing until you can pull the trigger quickly yet smoothly
while keeping the sights on target.  DA or DAO revolvers have the edge
here, as they dry-fire the same way whether loaded or unloaded, while SA
or DA autoloaders have to be manually cocked after every shot when
dry-firing.  Also, practice the function and handling of your weapon until
it becomes second nature.  This includes drawing and gripping the pistol,
loading and unloading, decocking the gun and releasing a locked slide (if
it is an autoloader) and clearing jams.  For autoloaders, jams are cleared
using the "tap-rack-bang" method; that is, tap the butt of the magazine to
make certain that it is seated properly, rack the slide to clear the
chamber, then pull the trigger.

You should be able to manipulate your gun in the dark and when groggy or
tired.  Finally, always keep the gun in the same place.  If it is a carry
gun, keep the holster in the same location.  If it is a home defense gun,
keep it where it is accessible and where you can easily find it in the
dark.  Note that it is not always desirable to keep the gun within reach
of the bed, especially if you are a deep sleeper.  While it may seem to be
an advantage to have it at hand, if you are groggy you may grab it and do
something foolish without thinking, and it a perpetrator gets all the way
into your bedroom before you away, he is just as likely to see where you
are groping for the gun and use it against you as you are to defend
yourself with it.  You should have adequate defenses to prevent the
perpetrator from getting that far undetected in the first place.  More on
this later.

While handling the gun, make a point to follow the laws of gun safety.
While there are several different versions of this, there are four basic
rules to gun safety.  It is said that you can violate any three rules
without injury being incurred, but that if you violate even one you
shouldn't handle the weapon until you can follow the rules.  These rules
are

--The gun is always loaded

--Never point a gun at anything you don't intend to shoot and kill.

--Don't put your finger on the trigger until you have identified the
  target and have brought the weapon to bear.

--Be certain of your target.  (And its backstop, if possible.)

The third rule is of particular interest, for of most accidental discharges
that occur during a real situation, this is the one that most people
ignore.  This is inexcusable, especially since any well-build firearm will
not go off except when the trigger is pulled.  Writers often talk about
"his finger lightly resting on the trigger", which is foolish, especially
if the gun is in single action.  With adrenalin running though your
bloodstream you are likely to inadvertently jerk the trigger at the
slightest provocation and accidently shoot an unidentified target or a
perpetrator that you are holding at bay.  Too, many people (often police
officers using the Glock pistol, which has lead to the development of
extra-heavy triggers for the Glock) have shot themselves while holstering
or unholstering their weapons by inadvertently having their finger on the
trigger of the gun.  It is highly advised that you practice drawing the
weapon and holding it while keeping the finger off the trigger.  One
suggestion is that while holding the weapon to keep the finger forward and
somewhat above the trigger, so that a simple jerk will not cause the
finger to activate the weapon.  Though this makes it a little harder to
learn trigger control, it makes use of the weapon a lot safer, and the
last thing you want to do is to shoot someone by accident.

When practicing handling the weapon, pay attention to the little details,
like how your grip your weapon and how it is best drawn.  While this may
seem mundane and repetitive, it is the little details which separate the
expert from the ordinary.  Such things as economizing the drawing action,
or learning the best way to load the weapon may shave seconds off of your
time, and in combat, these seconds may count.  Make these actions
automatic, so that when and if (hopefully not) the time comes, you react
with calm and in the knowledge that you can handle your weapon.

Try imagining situations in the real world where you might have to use a
gun, and try dry- firing (you did check your gun three times to make
certain it is empty, didn't you?) around the house for an idea of how
difference objects will affect your ability to shoot.  Shooting a
stationary target on a brightly lit range is one thing; shooting a moving
target in the dark that may be shooting back is quite another.  By
learning how to use a weapon outside the range, you will have training in
excess of that required of most police officers.

A note about shooting styles:

There are a number of "experts" and professionals who taut their own style
as being the perfect and ultimate way to shoot a gun.  Some advocate the
isosceles stance, others champion the Weaver.  Some concentrate on point
shooting, while other experts denounce point shooting as glorified
"spray-and-pray".  The following methods are my own person favorites and
you may accept them or reject them as you wish; whatever you choose, it
should be the best FOR YOU.  Many of the best martial arts fighters study
several systems, and then combine their training into their own personal
system, using elements from all manner of styles.  Similarly, you should
concentrate not on following one particular style but in finding the best
elements of all styles and adopting them as you see fit.  Examine the
merits and disadvantages of all variety of movements, and choose those
that suit you.  If you intend on spending a lot of time in training, then
you may select complex and difficult skills to learn, such as one-handed
shooting, distance point shooting, etc.  If you have little interest in
in-depth studies, you would be wisest to learn the basics and concentrate
on those.  If it is your interest, a study of the martial arts is also
beneficial in learning to shoot well, as the principles of the martial
arts also apply to other physical activities, including marksmanship.

In training, after you have learned to control the gun in dry-fire, you
will want to go to the range.  This may be a public range or a club, but
may also be a friend's farm or public property where shooting is allowed.
In any case, follow the rules of gun safety, the range rules, and be
certain of your target and what lies beyond it.  Always use a backstop of
some kind.

For your first few sessions at the range, you will want to limit your
shooting, because you will probably become easily fatigued and will learn
little after this point.  Two or three boxes of ammo (50 rounds/box)
should be sufficient, and though you will want to do some practice with
the ammo that you intend to use for defense, for general practice you need
not use premium defensive ammo for training.  A lead or copper jacketed
roundnosed bullet in the approximate bullet weight of your defensive load
should serve well (i.e., if you intend on using 115 grain 9mm hollowpoints
for self-defense, use 115 grain FMJ or roundnose for training.) Ammo
should be bought from a reputable dealer, and should be factory new or
once-reloaded ammo (like Black Hills).  Do not buy ammunition loaded by a
local, or by the range, unless you have testimonials from reliable people
that this ammuntion is safe and of high quality.

When you first get to the range, you may find yourself very excited.  Stop
for a few moments and take some time for dry fire practice and gun
handling practice, so to remind yourself and your "muscle memory" how to
shoot.  Then, load up and remember to follow all safety rules and range
rules.

Let's talk about stances for a bit.  The isosceles stance, where one
stands with chest facing the target and feet spread out, so that the legs
and ground form a triangle, used to be highly favored.  However, many
modern shooters find it difficult to control recoil because there is no
support, other than the ankles and heels, to prevent one from bending
back.  The Weaver stance, invented by (who else) Jack Weaver, has one
standing with the weak (non-firing) leg in front, the strong leg behind it
so that the body is turned at about 60 degrees to the strong side from the
target, and with firing arm slightly bent and supported by the non-firing
hand in some fashion.  The line-of-sight is in axial with the firing arm.
Some people advocate that the non-firing hand hold the wrist of the firing
hand, or that it make a platform below the firing hand.  Others claim that
the weak hand should wrap around the firing hand, squeezing it gently and
providing support.  It is currently pretty much agreed that the "dished"
portion of the trigger guard of many semi- automatics should not be used
as a rest for the index finger of the weak hand.  Various gun experts have
argued about the placement of the thumb of the non-firing hand, and the
grip on the gun, but there is no clear resolution on this issue, so the
best method is the one that works best for you.  Experiment with your
grip, and see which works best. Do some research, find out what people
like, and try different stances and holds out for yourself.

First you should start with aimed fire.  Load the weapon with five rounds,
and start out at about 7 yards.  Draw the weapon, and with a two handed
grip, at about one round per two seconds, fire at the target, aiming with
the sights.  You should lower the gun after every shot, to avoid fatigue.
After five rounds stop and check your progress.  If your shots are
completely missing the target, then try dry-firing for a few minutes,
checking your trigger action.  Do this until you feel comfortable
Remember, you're not trying to be a world class target shooter.  If the
bullets are hitting the target in the general area where you are aiming
them then you are doing fine.  Greater accuracy and control will come
later, with training and experience.

Once you have mastered slowfire, try rapid fire.  With a handgun, you
should general fire twice at the same target, a technique known as the
double tap.  This creates two separate wounds that have a much better
chance together of immediately disabling your opponent. Load your gun with
four rounds.  If you can, use multiple targets.  Fire one double tap at
each target, using the sights to acquire with each shot.  Although
competition shooters are trained to follow the front sight up to the
target, they don't have to worry about the target taking cover or shooting
back.  You should keep your eyes on the target, bring the gun to bear, and
then focus on the sight for a final adjustment.  With a little practice,
this becomes a natural action, and you will find yourself aiming as you
squeeze the trigger.  It is often helpful to keep the barrel pointed a
little upwards, exposing the front sight.  If the barrel is below the
level of the rear sight (on the sight plan intersecting with your eye)
then the front sight will be below vision, and you will have to seek
around to find the sight, losing valuable time.

If you find that you can shoot accurately at this distance, move the
target back to 15 yards, and try again.  Once you've mastered that, try
shooting at 25 yards.  Try shooting one-handed, weak-handed, drawing
quickly and shooting, from sitting, supine, and prone positions (if
allowed on the range that you are using, of course), around barricades,
etc. Try shooting in all conceivable positions and situations.  You
probably won't do this on your first range session, but keep at it until
you are confident of your ability to shoot in a variety of situations, and
between sessions try this dry-fire, too, shooting around the house (make
certain that gun is unloaded!) when others aren't home.  This may sound a
little weird, but what you are doing is learning how to shooting in the
real world (instead of just on the range) and these procedures are used by
many of the best training schools to simulate realistic shooting
situations.

Once you have mastered aimed shooting your should progress onto point
shooting.  Point or "natural" shooting is NOT unaimed "spray-and-pray"
fire; rather it is aiming by using hand-eye coordination.  Start out close
to the target, about 7 feet away.  You shouldn't allow anyone to come
closer to you than this when you have your gun drawn in defense. Load the
gun with four rounds, and maintaining a relaxed stance, draw the weapon
slowly, making sure to keep your finger off the trigger until the gun has
cleared the holster and is pointing in front of you.  Fire twice, keeping
the gun close to you.  Experts vary in opinion as to the relative height
of the gun, general preferring between the waist and the chest, so use
what feels most comfortable to you.  Keep the gun relatively close to your
body.  You also might want to keep the non-firing hand above the gun (and
definitely behind the barrel) so both to ward of a snatch attempt and to
deflect spent casings from an autoloader.  If you do not hit the target
where you intend, try adjusting your grip.  Some guns "point" very
naturally in the hand, while others require adaptation.  Once you can fire
reasonably well at 7 feet, extend your range, seeing how far you can fire
accurately without visual aiming.  Training to point shoot requires some
amount of patience and experience, but it is really no different from any
other eye-hand coordination activity like throwing a baseball or catching
a frisbee.

It is also suggested that you obtain some unarmed or "empty hand" self
defense training. Many police departments now require their officers to
take defense courses to prevent a snatch attempt of the officer's gun by a
suspect.  This is a good idea for anyone who intends to carry a gun
regularly.  Also, having the ability to defend yourself without drawing
your firearm increases confidence, and decreases the possibility of a
gunowner drawing their weapon prematurely and escalating an otherwise
manageable confrontation.  While it is not expected that the average gun
owner should become as proficient as in the martial arts as Steven Seagal
or Bruce Lee, a solid basis in basic self defense can serve anyone well.

Where should you obtain these skills?  The yellow pages of most decent
size cities have a dozen or more martial arts schools to choose from.
Unfortunately, what most of these schools teach is more appropriate to the
dojo mat than to the street.  Many schools teach the "traditional" styles,
that, although effective, require many years of study to become
proficient.  Even more schools cater to the competition crowd.  Some
forms, such as Tae Kwon Do, Shotokan, and Tai Chi Chaun have been almost
complete purged of their combat aspects, in preference to competition
skills and "healing benefits".  Some schools do teach real-life skills,
though. Be wary of instructors who demand that you do it exactly their way
because it is the only way.  There are a lot of people who have attained
black belt and higher ranks without ever facing a real challenge.  Self
defense is as much attitude ("It's going to cost you to take a piece of
me!") as skill.  Etiquette and form are the first things that to go out
the window in a real fight.

There are some groups that teach real self-defense.  One group, which
started in California, is called Model Muggings.  They concentrate more on
developing an aggressive attitude than on exact technique, and have been
quite effective.  Some dojos are run by instructors who HAVE seen real
combat and know what works and what doesn't.  By-and-large, these people
tend to come from the inner-cities where surviving a fight is a way of
life, and who have managed to pick up some formal combat skills somewhere
along the way.  Uncle Sam also recirculates thousands of combat
specialists into the job market every year.  Most of these people don't
advertise their skills, but if you know one and can convince him to "show
you a few pointers", you can obtain some valuable lessons from someone who
has used his skills in real combat.

There are many books available on both armed and unarmed self-defense.  As
previously stated, self-defense is more attitude than technique, and
although books can serve as a good reference they are no substitute for
more formal training.  Highly recommend ed are the _Black_Medicine_ books
(Vols. 1-3) by Dr. N. Mashiro.  Also, Marc MacYoung puts out several books
on fighting which, although are more informal than most self-defense
texts, concentrate heavily on attitude and awareness.



5) When and where can I possess a firearm?

This depends on the laws where you live.  In some places a permit is
required to possess a firearm, and in some of the major cities, civilian
possession of firearms is heavily resticted.  In Washington, D.C., for
instance, the possession of a firearm by a citizen is almost completely
prohibited, although these laws fail to keep criminals from obtaining
firearms.  While it is not the intend of this manual to suggest doing
anything illegal, if you live in such a place and feel the need to own a
firearm for defense, you must make a decision; respect the law, or arm
yourself.  If you do choose to purchase a gun despite the law, then using
the gun is truly a last resort.  The harrowing experience of Bernhard
Goetz, who shot four aspiring young punks in a robbery attempt, should
serve as a reminder to those to chose to carry a gun despite the legal
consequences.

If you truly feel that the situation that you live in is so dangerous that
you must carry a gun, and that option is proscribed by law, you should
consider moving to a safer area, or to a place where you are legally
permitted to possess a firearm.  Otherwise, you may find that you need to
find alternatives to the usually suggested defensive guns, such as
blackpowder revolvers or even non-firearm weapons such as clubs and
swords.  While these weapons are not as effective as modern combat
firearms, they are more effective than bare hands or depending upon 911.

In transporting a firearm from state to state, you must follow federal
guidelines, which include storing the weapon unloaded and locked in the
vehicle. Although federal statutes allow gun owners to transport their
firearms through areas that prohibit fire arms ownership as long as
federal guidelines on transportation are followed, some localities have
challenged this and have arrested, tried, and convicted people who were
following the law.  Be aware of these situations, and if you are
traveling, check out the laws in areas that you pass through.



6) When can I use a gun in self-defense?

Again, local laws determine when you may use a gun.  In general you may
use a gun to:

-- Defend yourself against a lethal threat
-- Defend other innocent people against a lethal threat
-- Stop a major crime in progress (murder, rape, armed robbery)

You may not use a gun to:

-- Stop a criminal from fleeing a crime scene once the crime has been
   committed
-- Prevent an unarmed criminal from stealing or vandalizing property
-- Defend yourself against purely verbal threats
-- Threaten people who trespass on your lawn or who commit "non-serious"
   crimes

These guidelines tend to vary from city to city and state to state.  In
some states, you may fire upon an intruder who enters your home, armed or
unarmed.  In other states, the criminal must visibly threaten you with a
"lethal weapon" in order to justify the use of a firearm.  A "lethal
threat" in most places simply means a threat that (real or not) would
cause the average person to fear for their lives.  This too varies; in
some places, the criminal must be armed, and in others, a disparity in
size between the attacker and the victim may be justification.  There is
even one state in which the homeowner must retreat "as far as reasonably
possible", including outside the home, before he or she is legally capable
of shooting.  It is advisable to check with local laws to determine when
you can and cannot use deadly force to protect yourself.  Organizations
such as the National Rifle Association, or local gun clubs may have this
information, but unless you see it in writing and from a reliable source,
treat it as hearsay.



7) What steps should I take to prepare for a defensive situation?

Well, as stated above, training is the key to preparation.  By being
prepared and being aware, you can outwit criminals who rely on surprise to
perpetrate their crimes on you.

It [should] go without saying that you should not rely upon police
response, even in areas where 911 service is available.  Simply by reading
the paper of any major city we can see that the existence of 911 and the
police has not reduced crime to marginal levels.  In some areas, average
wait times on 911 calls may be five minutes or more, added to police
response times which, depending on the area and time of day, may be
anywhere from a few minutes to hours.  In rural areas, police response may
be several hours or may not be available at all times, and the burden is
upon the home owner to provide for his or her defense.  In riot
situations, such as the LA riots of 1992, police response may be
non-existent.  Clearly, there exist many situations, even in our
hyper-communication society, where the individual must take responsibility
for personal safety.

If you are at home, small, cheap battery powered alarms can be just as
effective as professionally installed alarms.  As mentioned before, a dog,
small or large, makes an excellent natural alarm.  If you live in a rural
area, geese are notorious for the meanness, and a pet pig makes an
absolutely frightening guard animal that is difficult to put out of
action. Little ceramic knick-knacks on the window sill or on a shelf below
make it difficult for a criminal to enter your home quietly, and there is
a virtual plethora of devices and ideas to inhibit burglars, most of which
can be purchased or made quite cheaply, and which work surprisingly well.
The only limit is your imagination.  Remember, though, lethal
"booby-traps" are quite illegal, and can be dangerous to the homeowner as
well. Limit your ideas to alarm devices.

A neighborhood watch group is an excellent idea, even in rural areas where
neighbors may live a mile or more apart.  By keeping in fairly routine
contact, neighbors can determine if anything suspicious is going on.
Also, many rural sheriff and police departments have programs that allow
citizens to become reserve officers, who can be closer to crimes than a
centralized office, and can provide backup to officers already on the
scene of the crime.

If you are traveling in a car, be aware of traffic and do not get caught
in a situation where you have no mobility.  Leave a car length between you
and the next car at a stoplight. Keep the doors locked, and the windows
rolled up.  Look frequently at the rear-view mirror, and pay attention to
cars that seem to be following you.  If you have cause to believe that
someone may be stalking you, avoid falling into patterns; take a different
route to work every day, and pay attention when approaching or leaving the
car.

If you find yourself in a riot situation, don't stop for anything...keep
the car rolling, and just slow for stop signs.  Put the radio on an
all-news station, and avoid routes that take you into the rioting.  Don't
be curious or rubberneck, and don't stare at one thing.  Keep looking
around, and don't be afraid to damage your car to escape.  If you think
you need your gun, keep it on the seat beside you.  Don't stop to shoot at
someone, just keep on moving and get out of that situation as quickly as
possible.  Bear in mind that hitting something from a moving car,
especially while driving, is difficult, and that your car makes a much
better weapon than any handgun or even rifle.  Too, firing a firearm from
inside a car makes a terrible racket and may cause permanent hearing loss.

It is most important to develop a strategy beforehand.  This gives you
time to think consider your situation, rather than worry about what to do.
Preprogrammed decisions (if this, then I will...) can keep you from making
bad decisions in the heat of combat, and allow you to concentrate on the
execution of your strategy, instead of the design.  This is especially
true in home defense, where lanes of fire must be determined to avoid
hitting innocent people.

There is much more to be said on this topic, but this document isn't large
enough to present it all.  One book that is recommended on this topic is
Burt Rapp's _Armed_Defense_.



8) What if I have to use a gun to defend myself?

The most important thing is to stay calm.  If you have properly prepared,
you don't have to rush into a situation, and you can nullify the
opposition's element of surprise Never be in such hurry to draw your gun
that you don't know what you intend to do.  The first thing you should to
is find cover, or barring that, concealment and use it.  Cover is
something that will protect you against gunfire; concealment is something
that you can hide behind, but that will not stop bullets.  Don't confuse
the two; it could be your last mistake.  This will give you breathing
space to consider your situation.  If you have prepared, you won't
hesitate when force is needed, but you won't have to make an unconsidered
decision, either.  Remember, your primary objective is not to shoot your
attackers, but to keep from being shot.  Don't hesitate to retreat if the
situation calls for it, but don't allow yourself to be outflanked, either.
Remember the realities of the situation.  Hasty action can result in long
sentences in nasty prisons, or even worse, your untimely demise.

If you have confronted a criminal, keep him out of kicking range, about 4
feet.  If he enters inside this range he may be able to kick the gun out
of your hand, or tackle you and grapple the gun from you.  Tell the perp
to keep his hands in view.  Take cover if at all possible.  This is a most
dangerous situation; the perpetrator may decide to attack you or die
trying.  He may have weapon secreted on him, or he may make a sudden move
that makes you believe he had a weapon and causes you to shoot, only to
find later that he was unarmed.




9) What if I capture the attacker alive?

If he is dangerous (and we assume that by the use of your firearm, he is),
the best thing you can do is get him to flee the area, quickly, and
without his weapon. The police are sworn to bring all criminals to
justice; you are not.  Holding a captured attacker at gunpoint is one of
the riskiest things you can do. To begin with, he may have more than one
weapon, and may be able to draw a backup gun and fire on you before you
can react. He may be faking injury to draw you from cover. He may have an
accomplice waiting to kill you from cover. You cannot assume that you have
complete control of a prisoner.  Do not attempt to tie him up or handcuff
him unless absolutely necessary.  Even the police use at least two men for
handcuffing, one covering the suspect while the other handcuffs. Telling
him to get out, to get away, usually buys you time to assess the
situation, call the police and let them pursue and make an arrest, and get
more control over yourself. You may need this time to get better cover, or
look for other attackers you may have missed.

You do not have the same training and experience that the police have in
managing violent criminals. Suppose the criminal dropped his weapon when
challenged, then refused to lie down, kneel down, or keep his hands above
his head? Do you shoot him? You could justify doing so when he was armed,
but if he is unarmed, you are setting yourself up for a criminal and civil
suit in many places. Criminals don't always obey someone with a gun.
Discretion may keep you alive, and that's what self-defense is about.

There are desperate situations where you do have to hold a criminal for
the police.  If you have to do so, call the police, tell them what you
have done, and most importantly, give them your description so they don't
shoot you in confusion.  Keep the criminal on the ground, spread-eagle,
face down.  Don't speak to him and don't let them look at you, if
possible. If one does pull a weapon, he won't know where you are.  If you
can decock your automatic, lower the hammer to the down position, lest a
tremor from the adrenalin in your system cause you to accidentally trigger
the gun in single action. You should not have a revolver in single-action
mode in this situation, but if you do, don't try to lower the hammer until
your nerves steady, and you can do so in a direction away from your
prisoner.

If you are in an area or situation where professional law enforcement is
non-existant and you have to hold the criminal for an extended period of
time you need to search for weapons.  This is a very risky action, even
with two people, and should only be done in a situation where the perp is
to be held for an extended period of time.  This is not done in the way
shown on TV.  Make the criminal lie on the floor, and put one ankle behind
the other knee.  Then, force the unbent leg up, putting pressure on the
ankle. Even a large man can be held like this with just the force of your
body weight.  Then, and only then, holster your weapon; do not lie it on
his back, or in any way give him access to it.  The go over his clothing,
first patting it and the rumpling it, to look for both bulky and slim
weapons.  Check all areas.  If he says something snide while checking the
crotch, ignore it.  Remove the shoes and the belt, any and all contents of
the pockets, including keys, combs, etc.  After determining that he has no
weapons , secure his hands behind him with handcuffs, duct tape, or
superglue, and standing out of leg's reach, allow him to stand.  Always
stay at least a leg's reach away, and be ready for him to charge.  If you
are working with another person, have that person hold a gun on the
criminal while you frisk him.  Never cross your partner's line of fire.
This is a really dangerous situation; if the criminal tries to struggle
with you, he may take your weapon, or you may be forced to shoot him,
incurring both civil and criminal liability.  It is only to be used in a
situation where other options, such as letting the criminal go or holding
him at gunpoint is not sufficient.

While it may seem desirable to knock the criminal unconscious, especially
if there is more than one, this can lead to liability.  You cannot, as a
matter of course, shoot the perpetrators after they have been disarmed or
have surrendered.  This is execution, and very illegal, and while it may
solve certain problems (like the perp contradicting your story) it can
also get you in the "big house" for a long stretch.  If you can convince
the perps to take off and leave you alone, you will probably be better
off.



10)   Should I alter the scene to  make me look innocent?

In a word, no.  Some "experts" and many street cops recommend that, if you
shoot a prowler outside of your home that you should drag him in.  This is
very bad advice.  If there is even a suspicion that you did something
wrong then you will be put under investigation, every part of your life
will be scrutinized, and you will undergo a very harrowing situation.
Forensic scientists can determine some pretty unbelievable things from
very meager evidence, so unless you are familiar with their methods, it is
likely that you will leave clues that point to your actions.

On the other hand, if you are away from home, there are situations where
it may seem easier to "walk away".  The recommendation is that, whenever
possible, avoid tampering with the crime scene, and tell as much truth as
possible.  If you decide to walk away, police the area for your casings,
footprints, fingerprints, etc.  If you do this, you will be a hunted man
(or woman), not knowing if someone will piece the situation together and
find you.  There is no statute of limitations on murder, so consider this
option a very last resort, if at all.  In the majority of situations where
you have a legitimate reason for using lethal force, you are far better
advised to take chances with the law.  On the other hand, there are some
situations, such as that of Bernie Goetz, where it may be advisable not to
contact the authorities, even if you were in the right, morally.  This
decision is yours to make.



11) How do I deal with the police and prosecutor?

There is a disparity of opinion as to how you should deal with the police
and the prosecutor.  Some claim that you should talk to the police, tell
your story, omitting anything not 100% legal, and hope for the best.
Proponents of this claim that by holding back and talking to a lawyer, you
make yourself look suspicious and you can incur prosecution on an
otherwise legal self-defense claim.  This does make some amount of sense;
however, if you screw up and admit to something illegal, or misjudge the
officer writing the report, you can end up going to prison for a long
time.

Another opinion claims that you should tell the cops, "Look, I want to
cooperate with you, but this is so serious, I have to talk to a lawyer and
find out what's going on." Then shut up. Tell the police that you feel
sick and ask to be taken to a hospital if you are pressed. Have a lawyer's
number ready, or call a family member, give them a quick summary, and have
them get the wheels rolling to have you bailed out and defended. Remember
that even if you are no-billed, you can be sued in civil court, so you
might want to confer with the DA, the judge and your lawyer to be tried,
but have the judge throw the indictment out, or formally refuse to
prosecute, or return a judge's verdict of "not guilty".

If you do decide to talk to a lawyer, hire a private attorney.  Although
public defenders are available if you are indigent, these people are
over-worked and under-paid lawyers who try to lighten their caseloads by
turning every case into a plea-bargain.  While this may work for criminals
who have associates to squeal on, you should try to avoid any conviction
at all.  A professional attorney may seem expensive, but the fees are
nothing compared to the cost of serving time in prison.

If you are a store-owner you have special considerations.  Customers may
sue you for "putting their lives in jeopardy" and if an innocent person
gets shot, even if it is not your bullet, you can be held liable for
resisting.  If your store is being robbed while innocent customers are
there, fighting back against the perpetrators is a last resort situation
that can result in severe penalties.  Bear this in mind, and consider
keeping a lawyer on retainer if you own a store in a high crime area.

Whatever you do is up to you, but consider that since you don't have the
criminal connections that professional crooks do, you won't be able to
plea bargain down to jaywalking or some other misdemeanor as many
criminals are able to do.  In fact, a prosecutor might attack you in
trying to make a political statement against firearms or self-defense.
This is a complex subject, and it is something that you should think about
carefully before deciding to use a gun for self-defense.  Whatever you do,
stay calm. Don't try to hide your feelings; if your story sounds to
prepared the police or prosecutor may become suspicious.  Just tell the
basics, and don't let the officer suggest events to you.  Remember to be
polite.  This police officer is writing the report that can determine
whether the prosecutor should pursue charges.  The officer can be your
ally or your enemy, depending on how he slants his or her report.



12) What are the legal and social consequences?

The legal ramifications are fairly obvious; if the shooting is unjust (and
sometimes even when it is just) you can go to prison.  The Big House, as
it is known among the criminal element, is just as bad as everything you
have ever heard about it, and worse.  Since you are a law-abiding citizen
with no criminal connections to protect you, you will be the lowest form
of prisoner, and will receive the brunt of all punishment.  The entire
notion should eliminate from your mind any ideas about blasting away at
bad guys with abandon, or killing the ring leader and walking/driving/
riding into the sunset with the beautiful but ditzy heroine.  Unlike the
movies, where the credits role and the movie ends, you may have to face
years of painful and expensive litigation to prove your innocence.  The
justice system is not kind to those who are ignorant of its workings.

The social consequences can be just as bad.  You may find that your
friends, neighbors, and relatives who have never encountered this sort of
situation will reject you as a killer. If your case is at all famous you
may be subject to insults by strangers as well.  If your assailant has
friends, or belongs to a gang, you can expect violent retribution which
can escalate rapidly.

Other people, violence groupies, may try to hang around you and ask you
how it felt to kill someone, and so forth.  People may try to use you as
an example for their favorite cause. You may have media people hounding
you and everyone associated with you.  Any secret you once had will
probably be dragged out of the closet for all to see.  You may even be
forced to move to a different area and start a new life.

But it's better than being killed, or watching those you love die.



13) What if I get shot?

First of all, if you use good tactics, you lower the odds of being shot by
a large percentage.  Also, most criminals are punks with little training.
Their weapons are probably not as well serviced, they may not have paid as
much attention to ammunition as you have, and they almost certainly
haven't prepared for the situation like you have.

If, though, you do get shot, it is important to stay calm.  First things
first; eliminate the shooters, and don't hesitate -- your life is truly on
the line.  Then, apply pressure to the wound to stop the bleeding.  Keep
warm, follow first aid procedures (if you don't know them, then take a
first responder course; it may do more to save your life than a firearm)
and get medical attention as soon as possible.





Suggested Reading


First of all, there are certain books (or types of books) that you might
want to avoid.  That is, if you want to stay alive.  Many so-called
defense books perpetuate myths and suggest procedures that may seem okay
in the dojo, but don't work for diddily in the streets.
Books to avoid:

-- Books about "ninja death touches" and the like; the kind that offer the
   promise of instant self-defense.

-- Books on traditional martial-arts styles.  These styles can be
   effective, but many of the techniques are intended to be used by people
   who have years of experience and conditioning.  If you want to put in this
   much effort, join a martial arts school.

-- Military manuals.  These are universally bad and uninformative, and
   teach the reader just enough to get killed.

-- Any book that promotes flashy techniques (spinning heel snap sidekick
   to the opposite kidney).  You are looking for simple techniques that will
   work for you.

-- Sucker punch books -- these techniques only work on suckers.  Never
   underestimate your opponent.

-- Any book by Dr. Ted Gambordella.  This guy has no idea what he's
   talking about. Ignore him.


The following is a list of books on the topic of armed and unarmed
self-defense (along with a short critic) that I feel are extremely good.
Most of these are available from Loompanics, Publishers.  The address for
Loompanics is

Loompanics Unlimited
PO Box 1197
Port Townsend, Wa 98368


Unarmed Self Defense

_Cheap_Shots,_Ambushes,_and_Other_Lessons_ by Marc "Animal" MacYoung.  If
you read only one book besides _Armed_Defense_ on this entire list it
should be this one. This is not your typical book on self-defense; it has
a bare minimum of information about how to hit people and so forth.
Instead, it talks heavily about awareness, perception, and motivations.
It is one of the few books I have ever read that holistically covers the
topic of unarmed (and armed) self-defense.  There are no diagrams
detailing the x-number of striking points on the human body, and no tables
that determine how long a man bleeds from a certain artery before he is
dead; the book isn't even organized in a linear, rational manner, but the
information that it provides is extraordinarily useful.  It covers the
information from the viewpoint of someone who has been in combat, rather
than some theory-spouting pogue sitting behind a desk.  I cannot recommend
this book more highly.

_Fists,_Wits,_and_a_Wicked_Right_ also by Marc MacYoung.  This book
details more about the actual workings of a fight.  It doesn't have a lot
of those cute little diagrams with lines going every which way either, but
it does tell the ordinary person (one who can't punch though 1/2 inch of
solid bone with his pinky finger) where and how they can strike to be most
effective.  It also debases several of the myths that the movies have
perpetuated.  Although this book is not as utterly important to read as
Cheap Shots, it is highly recommended.

_Black_Medicine_, Vols. 1-3 by N. Mashiro.  The third volume, Low Blows,
is particularly good, as it presents detailed, simple techniques.  Highly
recommended.

_Subway_Survival_ by Bradley J. Steiner.  This is a good book for people
who live in urban areas.  The procedures in this book can apply to all
crowded situations, not just subways.

_A_Bouncer's_Guide_to_Barroom_Brawling_ by Peyton Quinn.  A good addition
to Cheap Shots, as it deals with some of the same ideas, but not required.

_War_With_Empty_Hands_ by Lenox Cramer.  A good book in its own way, but I
hesitate to recommend it for someone with no martial arts experience.
definitely a supplementary item.

Sun Tzu's _The_Art_of_War_ various translations.  Interesting ideas that
are applicable to all forms of confrontation.  Good reading.


Armed Self-Defense

_Armed_Defense_ by Burt Rapp.  An excellent book on armed self defense for
the individual, homeowner, and businessman.  If you read only one book out
of this entire list, read this one.  Highest recommendation.

_In_the_Gravest_Extreme_ by Massad F. Ayoob.  General an excellent book on
armed self-defense, although I disagree with a few of his points.

_Principles_of_Personal_Defense_ by Colonel Jeff Cooper.  He talks about
the basics principles of armed or unarmed self-defense.


-------------------------Don't Tread On Me!----------------------------
 Shane C. Henry    | "If 'everybody knows' such-and-such, then it
 1022 Morrell St.  |  ain't so, by at least a factor of ten thousand
 Rolla, MO 65401   |  to one."
 shenry@umr.edu | --Robert A. Heinlein
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

"I guess you all heard about one Mary Burtzman, who as a Marine officer
 candidate has doubts about her acceptance of a commission. She is quoted
 as saying in the National Review, 'It's a shame such a great organization
 has such a low purpose.'

"Miss Burtzman certainly has a right to her opinion, but one wonders
 about the officer who recruited her. A Marine of any rank is, First and
 foremost, a killing machine. One who does not like that idea should
 certainly be in some other line of work. When I was a junior officer we
 used to declaim, 'If you want to learn a trade, join the Army. If you want
 a clean bunk every night, join the Navy. If you want to fly, join the Air
 Force. If you want to fight, join the Marines.'

"The Countess has suggested that Miss Burtzman has a great future as a
 member of the Clinton cabinet."

                                                --Col. Jeff Cooper