> > >First of all, read my self-defense FAQ. I don't mean to tout my own horn, > >but it does include much of what I am about to say. > > Where is this FAQ to be found? Right now, it isn't available by ftp or WWW, but once I get my homepage set up, it will be available in HTML format. Also, I am working on a third revision on it; when complete, I will offer it to Jeff Chan and MAGNUM@whatever (rec.guns moderator) as public material. The third revision will contain more information on training methods and tactics, a section on concealed carry methods (I would appriciate information on this subject from those with active experience), clarifications on gun and ammo selection, more material on selection and application of non-firearm weapons, and in light of recent events, I will probably include a section on stalking. In the meantime, here is the second revision. As always, comments, requests, constructive criticism, and even flames are welcome. Armed Self-Defense FAQ (Version 1.1) Disclaimer: Neither the author, nor the author's organization, nor the distributor accepts responsibility for injuries or damages resulting from the following information. Some actions described below may be illegal in certain localities or states, and such actions are not supported by the author nor any associations thereof. The reader should understand that he alone is responsible for his actions. Foreword The fear of being a victim of violent crime is far from alien in our society. Some blame this upon the courts and the police, in their ineffectiveness at keeping violent predators "off the streets." Others argue that the lack of "family values" or "societial mores" is responsible for the current predicament. Some even blame the proliferation of weapons for the actions of criminals, and call for restrictions and bans upon the tools used by criminals. The masses scream for "those politicians in Washington and elsewhere" to solve these problems through legislation. And yet, people from all walks of life, all economic circumstances, and all political ideologies are coming to realize that, legislation non withstanding, the responsibility for personal safety lies in the individual. Laws may be enacted prohibiting this and restricting that, but it is, by definition, the purview of criminals to ignore these laws and perpetrate crimes. A law that prohibits stalking isn't of much comfort to the woman who is being pursued but can't identify her stalker to the authorities until he strikes. Similarly, there is little comfort for the victim in stronger sentences for rapists if the target victim is unable to prevent the rapist from attacking her. In pursuit of personal security many people have adopted personal security strategies and obtained training in self-defense. Some even opt to obtain weapons, to equalize any advantage that size and strength might give an attacker. Some choose clubs, others electric stunners and pepper spray. And some even choose the firearm for self-defense. It is for these people that this document is intended. The intent of this document is to provide information. It will undoubtedly irritate some people, those who insist, despite contrary evidence, that the armed citizen is a greater threat to himself and society than a criminal. On the other hand, it suggests that firearms may not be the best option for everyone. This document is not intended to convince the reader to buy a gun; it was designed to provide information to let the reader make an informed decision, whether to purchase a gun and what kind to buy. It is also not the intent to suggest that the reader should do anything illegal; indeed, it is stressed that the reader should, if at all possible, stay within the bounds of the law. Within those bounds, this is an attempt to give the best advice in all situations. However, there is also the recognition that in some situations the user may have to make a decision between obeying the law and optimizing the chances of surviving an attack. This document is certainly not an all-inclusive reference on self-defense; it just barely scratches the surface. For that reason, a list of suggests titles appears at the end of the document, for inquisitive readers. It is highly recommended that the reader read one or more of these books, in order to deepen their understanding of the legal basis for self-defense, and the hazards associated with it. As the reader, you may disagree with some ideas stated in this document; this is fine, no law requires you to concur. I certainly do not have the last word on self-defense, and despise the term "expert" in relation to knowledge. Any real expert knows that there are always differing, but equally valid viewpoints and that there is always more knowledge to be learned. This document is like a Swiss Army knife: use what you can, ignore what you think you don't need. There's no point in trying to force you to use the fish scaler if all you need is a screwdriver. But it is highly suggested that you read over all of the material at least once. If you have any questions, or suggestions, send them to the FIREARMS list. Someone will be more than happy to answer your question, no matter how mundane it might seem to you. Shane C. Henry shenry@umr.edu 1) Should you buy a gun? A gun is the most efficient means of self-defense yet devised. It can allow someone with a very small physique, or weakened by age, to effectively protect himself or herself from single or multiple attackers, who would otherwise overwhelm any other defense. Whereas a martial arts skill can take years to build, training someone to use a gun effectively in self-defense may take only hours. And most people who buy firearms for self-defense find practice shooting a pleasure they had not anticipated. I won't belabor you with statistics demonstrating the pervasiveness of violent crime. If you are aware enough to ask the question above, you are undoubtedly aware of the situation in modern-day America. As many victims have found out in an unpleasant manner, you cannot rely on the police to show up in time, or even to protect you if they do appear. This is not to fault police; they are primarily a reactive force, and most police officers do the best that they can under very trying circumstances. Nonetheless, responsibility for your personal safety and that of your family lies in your hands. Reliance upon the police to provide immediate protection from an imminent threat is foolish. Even with the modern convenience of the 911 system, through which one may instantly convey your situation to the appropriate authorities, does not guarantee a timely police response. It may be that there are no police in the immediate area, or that the officers that are in proximity are in the midst of another incident. It may also be that police are unable to locate you, especially if you are calling from a cellular phone or other non-fixed location. Too, It may be that the 911 is flooded with calls and you are put on hold. One conservative estimate places the average waiting time for a 911 call to be processed at five minutes, in which time a criminal could easily injure or kill you and your family. And, as some have had the misfortune to find out recently, the 911 operator that you contact may mistakenly place your life-threatening case low on the "triage list". One must note, also, that police do not exist to protect individuals but rather to enforce laws, and an officer or department cannot be held liable for failing to come to the defense of a civilian. I state these facts not to frighten people into buying a gun, but rather to present the reasons that a person cannot rely upon the police to provide for personal security. Many articles on self- and home defense recommend locks, bars, and the carrying of portable cellular telephones instead. These articles point out instances where people were injured accidentally by a firearm. This is not a likely possibility. Millions of firearms are owned in America, yet the number of accidental shootings remains low, and continues to drop, even with steady increases in gun ownership. Most accidental shootings or accidental discharges are the result of poor training and safety skills, combined with a lack of common sense. The firearm is not a malignant entity, but merely a tool than can be wielded for good purposes and bad. One statistic currently popular with the press and anti-gun movement is that you are 43 times more likely to be "victimized" by your own gun that to use it on a criminal. This statistic is based on a CDC study, supported by various anti-gun groups, and is just short of being a bald-faced lie. (Read Gary Kleck's _Point_Blank_ for a detailed analysis of his study, which shows that 2.4 million Americans use a firearm in self-defense every year, which works out to the advantage of the gun-owning defender by a factor of as much as 600 to 1.) The fact of the matter is, if you are willing to devote some time and effort, you can master the principles of gun safety, and be confident in using a gun to defend yourself and your family. It has been stated by certain feminists and gun control proponents that the gun industry has targeted women for sales by using scare tactics, and that women are better off not using a firearm because they are more likely to hurt themselves than to use the weapon in defense. One feminist Congresswoman even stated that women are virgins when it comes to guns and should stay this way. Aside from the fact that many women are not "virgins when it comes to gun" and the wonderment of so-called proponents of women's liberation who claim that, while women should in other cases strive for independence from men, they should rely upon the government to provide their personal protection, the claims that women cannot use firearms in self-defense are demonstratively false, as many women have used firearms specifically for that purpose, and without harming themselves in any way. As for scare tactics, while it is true that the gun manufactures have published statistics that demonstrate that women are more likely to be victim of violent crime and have made appeals based upon the woman's desire to protect herself and her family, the anti-gun lobby has used equivalent, if not exceeding, tactics in claiming that women cannot handle firearms and that firearms have not utility in self- defense for a woman. To claim that firearms cannot be used for self-defense, and by women, flies in the face of facts and good sense, and for self-identified feminists to imply that women are incapable of handling firearms is preposterous. One wonders whose side these "feminists" are on? There are some who will ask "Why a gun? Why not pepper spray, or a stun gun, or some other non-lethal device?" Certainly, such devices have their utility, and if one is to carry a gun it is well advised to have a less-than-lethal alternative at hand. However, none of these--electric stunners, OC sprays, telescopic batons, etc.--are as effective as a firearm, and many people been victimized despite appropriate application of these weapons. Someone who is intoxicated or mentally deranged may not feel the broken bones or be adversely affected by the electrical pulses of a baton or hand stunner, respectively, and though an application of OC or mace to the eyes of an attacker may blind him, it may not prevent him from latching on to you and injuring or killing you. In a situation where it is your life on the line, you are ethically (and probably legally, dependant upon local laws) in the right to use lethal force in defense of self. This is not, as some would suggest, vigilantism, as you have not conspired to murder your attacker in cold blood, but rather to use the necessary force in which to defend your own life. Others ask about the utility of knives for defense. There is an old saying about this; "Never bring a knife to a gunfight." While in the hands of an expert a knife can be an exceedingly deadly weapon, it is marginal for use in self-defense, as it combines all of the negative aspects of non-lethal weaponry (required proximity to the attacker, slow effectiveness) with the negative aspects of a firearm (unrequitted lethality, potential social unacceptability.) While a knife may serve if it is the only weapon available, it is hardly a desirable primary or even secondary weapon, and falls below the forementioned "nonlethal" weapons in terms of desirability. Long blades may be more desirable, especially in areas where firearms are prohibited, but are still of dubious effectiveness relative to other available weapons. Of course, firearms are not for everyone. Owning and using a gun requires responsibility, a quality which some people lack. Make no mistake, drawing a weapon in defense is paramount to taking someone's life in your hands. Unlike in the movies, you don't "aim to wound". When you pull the trigger you must accept the fact that your action may result in the death of another person. Some people have moral or religious scruples about lethal self-defense, and these people shouldn't own a gun for the purpose of self-defense. Buying a gun "just to scare robbers" as many storeowners and home-owners do, could result in your attacker being able to claim that HE fired in self-defense, when you pulled your realistic replica out and pointed it. Holding a gun, or something that looks like a gun, on someone is considered armed assault, and if the attack on you was not serious enough to warrant using a real gun, the law will hold you to be the guilty party. It is better to arm yourself with a baseball bat or a spray and hope for the best, if you can't face using deadly force. There are more responsibilities associated with a gun. You must secure it so that it does not fall into the hands of irresponsible people. In households with children, this is a very real concern. A few common sense precautions, such as locking the gun and keeping it unloaded, with the ammunition stored in a separate but easily accessible (to you) place, will minimize the risk of an accident. If you have older kids, or other adults in the household, they should at least learn gun safety, so that they may handle the gun safely. For all kids, the National Rifle Association's "Eddie Eagle" program is held in esteem, even by opponents of the NRA, for it focuses only on gun safety and does not make any moral judgements on the right or wrongness of gun ownership. In any case, reasonable precautions will prevent accidents. Also, as a gun owner, you have a responsibility to other gun owners to project a positive image. Gun owners suffer from the stigma of "beer-swilling rednecks that lie to their wives about where they were all weekend" to quote one prominent anti-gun politician. Despite the stereotype, most gun owners are rational, moderate people who tend to be more literate and more polite than average. As a gun owner, it is up to you to demonstrate the stereotype to be false. There is sometimes a confusion about what a gun can do for you. A gun cannot "defend you". It is merely a tool that you can use to defend yourself, and like any tool, requires training to become proficient. A gun is not a bulletproof shield. If a gun makes you feel ten feet tall and invincible, you are better off without it. Confidence comes from knowing you can defend yourself, not from relying on gadgets or gimmicks to somehow prevent others from injuring you. A gun is not an invincible weapon; a clever opponent can disarm you if you are not aware, and it can be used against you, if you allow someone else to take possession of it. The real weapon is you and your attitude. Without the proper attitude, a gun is, at best, just an expensive paperweight. Don't expect to just buy a gun and stick it in your bedstand. Learn how to use it properly. Should you by a gun? I can't tell you that, and neither can anyone else. That decision is up to you. You must weigh the benefits and responsibilities and determine an answer that you find acceptable. 2) What kind of weapon should I select for defense? There are certainly a lot of guns out there, and every "expert" seems to have a favorite which (they claim) is far superior to all other guns/calibers. This devotion is particularly true to devotees of the .45ACP cartridge. Many studies have been done, most involving shooting various rounds into some media, such as ballistic gelatin, various types of fruits and vegetables, meat, water-soaked newspaper, and live animals, to ascertain which bullet and caliber is most effective. Other studies, based upon case reports of real-world shootings, have also been compiled. In general, for handguns, advocates fall into two groups, the "light and fast" folks who point out that the 125 grain .357 Magnum JHP is the top rated stopper in various real-world shootings, and the selection of the FBI. Others claim that penetration is more important than velocity, and call for heavier bullets with greater sectional density. (By the way, if this discussion of bullet weight and "sectional density" is getting a little over your head, don't worry about it, as we will see in following paragraphs, it isn't of primary importance.) In truth, they type of gun you have is far less important than the tactics that you intend to use. There are a few firearms that are truly inappropriate for self-defense (a .458 W Magnum, for instance, or a Thompson/Contender single shot in .35 Whelen) but by and large most firearms are acceptable and ANY firearm can be used in a pinch. Indeed, we are surrounded by a sea of lethal weapons, from the pencil to the pool cue, making efforts to ban so-called "lethal weapons" futile. The greatest weapon you have is your mind, and your skills. Good skills combined with a .25 caliber pistol will put you far ahead of an idiot with a .44 Magnum. Simplicity, reliability, and safety are far and above the most important factors. Caliber is secondary, at best, as are bullet characteristics. As long as the round you choose to use has the ability to penetrate deeply enough to hit vital organs and do enough damage to stop an opponent, it has utility for self-defense, and while high performance ammo may turn a marginal hit into a successful stop, it will not do wonders for an ill-placed or entirely missed shot. If you already have a gun that you want to use, adapt it to your circumstances by selecting appropriate ammunition and tactics. If you are looking into purchasing a firearm for self-defense, then there are a few things that you might want to know before wasting money on an inappropriate firearm. Firearms can be broken down into two basic categories; long arms (rifles, carbines, shotguns) and handguns. Of the two, long arms are generally easier to obtain, easier to use, and more powerful. However, the bulkiness of longarms makes them difficult to transport, awkward to use while navigating the narrow hallways of a house, and socially inappropriate to carry for protection outside of a combat zone. Too, these guns are often more powerful than is necessary. Stray bullets may penetrate exterior walls and travel for long distances, posing a danger to innocent people. The preferred longarm for home defense is the shotgun. Although shotguns are not the "point in the general direction and shoot" type weapons that they are portrayed to be, they are easy to learn to shoot, and are perhaps the most effective short-range small arms available to the average citizen. Long arms appropriate for self-defense are usually lever action, slide action, or semi-automatic, though an over-and-under or side- by-side shotgun may also be quite effective. One desirable characteristic of a long arm to be used for self-defense is compactness, and this is where magazine fed semi-automatics have the advantage over tube-fed slide action and lever action guns, in that they do not have to give up magazine capacity for compactness. On the other hand, a lever action gun in .30-30 with five rounds available, or a tube fed slide action shotgun with five or six rounds in the magazine is impressive, and both (generally) have the ability to be topped up while remaining in battery. Handguns are less powerful; indeed, compared to calibers chambered for long arms, handguns are "wimpy", hence the strong discussions between gun experts as to which is the "best", harder to learn to shoot, and are increasingly subject to considerably more regulation than longarms. Colonel Jeff Cooper (USMC, ret.) of Gunsite fame, makes the distinction that a long arm is an offensive weapon, one that you would bring along with you if you knew you were going into a fight, while a handgun is a defensive weapon, one that you carry upon you in case you have to use a gun, but don't really expect you use one. Handguns are puny compared to long arms, but you are more likely to have one on you when you need it, and therefore fulfills the first rule of a gun fight, "Bring a gun." Handguns can be considered defensive if they fill four qualifications: They must be capable of quickly stopping an attacker from doing further harm, they must be convenient to carry, absolutely reliable, and capable of dealing with multiple attackers. Defensive handguns come in two basic varieties: the revolver and the semi-automatic pistol. Revolvers come in three action types; single action (SA), double action (DA), and double action only (DAO). These classifications sometimes confuse novices, but are really quite clear. The action type refers to the number of actions performed by the trigger. With the single action revolver, the hammer must be manually cocked every time the gun is fired. The trigger simply releases the hammer (1 action). These guns are often seen in movies about the "Old West", and they still have a following among sp sportsmen and collectors, but they are obsolete as modern defensive weapons. They are very slow to reload, and most cannot be carried fully loaded. With the double action revolver, the action of the trigger both cocks the hammer and releases it (two actions). Additionally, the hammer can be cocked manually, and the gun can be used as a single action revolver Finally, the double action only revolver operates the same way as the double action revolver except that the hammer cannot be manually cocked. Few revolvers have external safeties. The difference between single- and double-action lies mainly in the amount of force necessary to pull the trigger. Since moving the hammer is added to the work a double action handgun must do, most double action triggers require anywhere from seven to fifteen pounds of pressure, whereas single action triggers only need five pounds or less. Considering that a handgun only weighs about one to two pounds, a heavy trigger pull makes aiming more difficult, and can make some guns unusable for those with weak grips. The double actions revolvers are, however, easier to reload, faster for the non-expert to shoot, and more compact than single action revolvers. Autoloading or semi-automatic (generally misnamed "automatic") pistols come in the same three action types (single action, double action, double action only) but they function differently than revolvers. With the single action (SA) autoloader, the hammer must be cocked manually for the first shot, but after firing, the action of the slide prepares another round and recocks the hammer for the next shot. With the double action autoloader, the first shot may be fired with the hammer down, (the trigger cocks and fires the gun in a manner similar to the DA revolver), but for all subsequent shots, the hammer is cocked and released like a single action autoloader. Most DA autos can be manually cocked, as well. The DAO automatic pistol functions similarly to the DAO revolver, in that the gun is always cocked and fired by the action of the trigger, and it, at least from operator viewpoint, much like a revolver in simplicity. Most SA autoloaders, and many DA pistols have external safeties, but an increasing number of DA pistols, and almost all DAO guns have no external safeties, relying on internal safeties and a heavier trigger pull for protection. The handgun has gained considerable attention since its invention, mainly due to its small size and low bulk. Police officers routinely carry sidearms, and many homeowners and storekeepers opt for the handgun because of its size. The DA revolver has for years been the weapon of choice of police officers, due to its simplicity of function. With no external safeties, and only a button or slider to open the cylinder, these weapons are simple to use, and for this reason are often recommended by gun experts. Although the revolver is not "jam-proof" as some claim, it is more resistant to jamming and is not as dependant on ammunition quality to function. Most revolvers only carry 5 or 6 cartridges, limiting the amount of firepower, and are slow to reload. Most autoloaders, on the other hand, are very quick to reload. One simply removes the empty magazine and replaces it with a loaded one. Some automatics carry as many as 18 rounds of ammunition in the magazine. Although revolver fans claim that autoloaders jam a lot, in truth most modern, well-made, semi-automatic pistols, when firing good quality ammunition, are just as reliable as revolvers. However, autoloaders can be picky about the ammo that they feed, and they can jam on a too-light or too- heavy load. They are also more complex to operate, which can be significant in a stressful situation. So now that you have (hopefully) a basic understanding of the various firearms that can be used for defense, what kind is right for you? Some people favor shotguns, because they are easy to learn to shoot, and they are they are far more powerful than a handgun, but don't have the range and penetration of most rifles. However, the muzzle flash and blast from a shotgun can be daunting to a novice, the recoil is heavy, and they are bulky. Some shotguns take care of the bulk problem with pistol grips, but these make the shotgun harder to control and require special training. There are a few rifles, like the Marlin Camp Carbines in 9mm and .45ACP, that fire pistol ammunition and therefore do not suffer from overpenetration as do most rifle calibers, but this also means that they are inferior in power to other types of rifles. Before you go out to buy a gun, it is suggested that you do some research on what is available, and on what you need. For instance, many gun owners who compete in "practical competition" point out the accuracy of a customized, scoped .45. These are hardly out-of-the-box guns, though; many of these guns cost $1000 or more. They are more akin to sporting pieces than defense guns. Some of the modifications to them make them somewhat unreliable and wholly unsuitable for self-defense. Any gun you buy should be useable right out of the box. At most, you might want to add some after-market grips and sights, or have the action smoothed out. Price is not a very good indicator of quality. Most good handguns run from $250 - $800, with good guns at all price points. It is important to get information about the features and quality of the gun or guns that you intend to buy, in order to get a gun which suits your needs. While gun magazines might seem to be a good source, most of these publications are supported in part by gun manufacturers, and are therefore reluctant to say anything really bad about an advertiser's gun. Good information CAN be gleamed from these articles, but you must take what you read with a pinch of salt. Talking with other gun owners can provide valuable information, but remember that many gun owners have a favorite, and their choice may be based more on peer pressure or association than by experience with a large variety of guns. An experienced gunsmith is an excellent source, as he will have certainly seen the problems with many guns and can inform you of guns to definitely avoid. Finally, there are several on-line forums that deal specifically with the topic of firearms. While this may fall under the heading of "other gun owners", the number of different opinions available makes up for this, and there is always encouragement for novices to ask "dumb", or basic questions. (The only dumb thing is to make a mistake because you failed to ask the question.) Basically, you should choose a gun that you feel comfortable with. It should fit well in the hand (a good set of grips may help here) it should be comfortable to hold; not so heavy as to be a detriment to accuracy, but heavy enough to absorb recoil. It should fit your needs. If you intend on carrying the weapon in concealment, then a smaller, lightweight gun is called for. If, however, it is a gun that is intended to be used for home defense and not carried around, a larger, heavier pistol or a long arm might be more appropriate. Many professionals suggest the revolver over the auto pistol if you do not intend to become highly proficient, as the revolver is simpler to operate and easier to learn to shoot well. Then you must select ammunition. Ammunition is a activity-dependant thing; ammo that is good for plinking or target shooting may not be appropriate for self-defense. In long arms, some shotgun owners like 00-buck; however experience has shown that 00-buck loads tend to disperse at distance, and cannot be relied upon to produce a good pattern. Most police departments (and the military) have switched to using #3 or #4 buckshot as a general purpose load. If you live in an apartment, you may want to consider a mid-range birdshot load. These can be lethal out to 10 yards, but quickly lose energy and pose far less danger of overpenetration than even most handguns. Still, #8 birdshot can penetrate drywall easily at 10 feet, so any shotgun must be used with care indoors. Rifles are general not good to use in indoor or urban settings. Even the .223 Rem, a hypervelocity lightweight bullet, can penetrate through a wall stud. "Assult rifles" and other socially unacceptable weapons might be very effective at stopping a robber, but may cause some concern about your politics. If you must use a rifle, be very aware of overpenetration. Several companies, such as Glaser, make frangible loads for rifles that tend to reduce overpenetration. In handguns, the choices become broader, mostly because handgun bullets are so ill-effective anyway. Well liked loads range across the spectrum. The 125 grain .357 Magnum is generally recognized as being the top stopper, with a "one-shot stop percentage" in the low to high nineties, depending on who you believe. Marshall and Sanow find that, based upon data from actual shootings, that the "best" 9mm Parabellum, .45 ACP, and .40S&W rounds are all clumped together at the high eighty-something mark. Other rounds fall from there. Some feel that this study has been discredited, and place more validity in the FBI studies that emphasize penetration. Others, mostly gun writers, claim that Marshall and Sanow are on the button with their ratings. Frankly, a large number of experienced people consider Marshall and Sanow's study, as well as the Strassburg tests, to be at best a general guideline to relative bullet effectiveness but far from the last word in stopping power. In any case, a bullet that misses the mark isn't going to do any good, be it a "puny" .380 ACP or a powerful 10mm. If you think that a .357 Magnum is too much, buy a .38. Better yet, buy a gun chambered for the .357 and shoot .38's in it. Alternatively, a revolver chambered for the .44 Magnum, with is rather overpowered for self-defense, can be loaded with .44 Special ammo. Although gun "experts" talk about the in adequacies of the .38 or the 9mm (usually while extolling the virtues of the .45 ACP), in reality, any gun chambered for the .38 or larger is quite sufficient to stop human attackers. Bigger calibers mean small increases in "stopping power" (the amount of "power" required to knock someone down; a nebulous and oft-argued term), and larger recoil. Advances in bullet science have made the differences between the major defensive calibers (.38 and above), much smaller than they were. The difference in skill between one gun wielder and another are generally far greater than the differences in "stopping power" between one gun and another. Buying the largest caliber that you can carefully and reliably use accurately is the best strategy, and learning to place your shots where they will do the most good is far more important than wrangling over the fractional percentage points that one "load" has over another, based upon Bill and Ted's (or whoever) rating system. For handguns, the hollowpoint bullet has become the leader in defensive ammunition. Early (1st generation) hollowpoints were just lead slugs with a hole in them. They had problems feeding in automatics, didn't provide reliable expansion, and were not highly regarded. Newer (2nd generation) hollowpoints were designed out of softer materials, had smaller cavities to encourage feeding in automatics, and were somewhat more reliable at velocities above 1000 feet per second. The newest selection of hollow-points (3rd generation) were designed to be capable of expansion below the older threshold, using a variety of features. For instance, the Federal Hydra-Shok has a post in the center of the cavity which keeps the walls expanding evenly and reliably. The ill-fated Black Talon [now rereleased, without the hard jacket, as the SXT] used the combination of a hard jacket, a soft core, and a sump drilled in the bottom of the cavity to release pressure and force expansion. Other designs, like the Federal Golden Sabre, the PMC Starfire, and the CCI Lawman, make use of designs tailored to handgun velocities to assure performance. Some claim that these are "killer bullets" and do not belong in the hands of citizens who do not face life-or-death confrontations every day. They argue that police, who face violence more often, need these bullets to defend themselves, but that ordinary people don't them. Such rationale has been used to pass laws in places like New Jersey, where it is illegal for citizens to possess hollowpoint handgun bullets. Frankly, this implies that possession of these bullets is paramount to intent to kill. In reality, no handgun bullet is designed to kill, and none can be expected to do so on demand. What hollowpoint bullets are designed to do is save lives. This last statement bears elaboration. Hollowpoint bullets are designed to stop an attacker with the least number of shots hitting him. They are designed to transfer as much of the bullet's energy into impact and shock. Round-nose bullets, which may zip through tissue with minimal disruption may require the defender to shoot his attacker more times in order to get him to stop his attack. The attacker shot with round nose bullets still bleeds, but he does not feel the same shocking, stopping impact that a hollowpoint produces. Why does this effect of hollowpoints save lives? First, the sooner an attacker is stopped in his attack, the less likely a defender is to be killed. If a shooting takes 15 seconds to stop a felon, that could mean the felon still has time to stab his victim to death, or shoot him with his own gun. Second, the fewer bullets necessary to be fired, and the more of those which stay inside the attacker, the less hazard to the innocent people nearby, but not involved in the attack. Not every bullet hits its intended target, and of those that do, round-nosed bullets are more likely to travel through an attacker with enough energy to kill a bystander. Third, one or two hollowpoints used to stop an attack means an attacker with one to maybe three holes to stop bleeding and repair. Four or five round nose bullets may mean six to ten holes, each leaking blood out and air in. Hollow point bullets are more likely to result in a live attacker, after surgery. This has been documented by several police departments who switched from standard round nose lead ammo to higher- powered hollowpoints. Their results: fewer dead cops, fewer dead crooks, fewer dead bystanders, often including fellow cops. It is your life on the line; police use these bullets because they are effective at stopping the criminals, and you should too. Realize that any bullet can kill, and any time you point a gun at someone your intent is to stop, but with the possibility of killing. Whether you are in 1 gunfight or 20, you want the best chances that you can reasonably obtain. If these are forbidden to you by law where you live, then check out alternatives like the Glaser Safety Slug, or the MagSafe. These aren't as effective (in larger calibers) as the best hollowpoints, but they are generally better than plain ball ammunition. Otherwise, if you are concerned about liability, carry the same ammunition as local police officers. This way, you can always point out that you were just using what the police consider the best, and that should be defensible in court. If you intend on carrying a weapon outside the home, you will also want to consider carrying a non-lethal weapon as well, so that you may have a tool to effectively defend yourself against non-lethal attacks. While a gun may seem to be a good deterrent to such attacks, it may also lead to an escalation from your aggressor who believes that since you have drawn your gun that he must go for broke and shoot or stab you before you do him. There is also the liability concern of who has drawn there weapons first, and of course as a law abiding gun owner, shooting someone (even an aggressor) is the last resort, when no other alternatives exist. This is where pepper spray, hand stunners, batons, and the like come into their roles. All are moderately effective in stopping less- than-lethal threats, and if the situation escalates to a lethal confrontation, then you have the weaponry to defend against that, too. My personal selection would be a baton or club of some sort. One of the heavy duty 3+ D-cell flashlights commonly available makes and excellent makeshift bludgeon, and has the additional advantage of doing double duty as an innocent flashlight. Several companies make extensible batons that are easily concealed on person, though some of these are rather shoddily made and it behooves the gun owner to purchase from a company that has a proven record and is a choice of police and federal agencies. Alternatively, a defender might choose a spray or some other non-lethal weapon for alternative defense. In any case, these weapons require some about of skill in their effective use, be it baton or spray, and the defender should become conversant in their use before carrying them. 3) What kind of accessories do I need? Do I need all that gear that is advertised in gun magazines? There are a lot of accessories on the market. Most accessories are dressing which serve no real purpose in enhancing the gun's function, but some can be quite useful. A short list is below. Holsters: Holsters are generally used for handguns, although there are holsters for rifles. The purpose of the holster is to protect the weapon, and clothing, and to secure the weapon. Many "authorities" claim that you absolutely have to have a holster. However, handguns existed far before holsters, and for years people have carried guns in their waistbands or pockets. The holster can be a very useful accessory if you intend to carry the gun with you often. It does make the gun safer to carry, and for certain types of guns (for instance a "locked-and-cocked" single action autoloader) it is practically required. If you just plan to keep the gun at home, then you may want to get a cheap belt holster for occasional carry, or none at all. There are expensive holsters made of exotic materials that can cost up to several hundred dollars, and there are inexpensive nylon holsters that can be had for as little as ten dollars. Some people even have holsters custom made. Holsters come with a variety of options and configurations, from shoulder holsters to hip holsters to ankle holsters. Many holsters are made for a specific purpose (i.e. concealment holsters are made for concealed carry) and work best when used for that purpose. If you intend to buy a holster, shop around and see what is available. Look through catalogs, and ask other gun owners what they prefer. Excellent holsters can be had from Michaels of Oregan, Galco, Safariland, De Santis, Kramer, and many other makers. The only limit is your pocketbook. Grips: Possibly one of the best accessories for a gun are aftermarket grips. Although good grips won't turn a dog of a gun in to a champion, they can turn a mediocre gun into an excellent one. Rubber grips help to absorb felt recoil, making the gun easier to shoot. There are also a variety of wood and plastic grips available various manufacturers. Sights: Good sights are important for accurate shooting; however in most combat situations you may not have time to use sights. Although good sights are nice to have, they are not imperative. Most modern guns come with pretty good sights anyway. Replacement sights range from about thirty dollars to as much as you want to spend. Luminous tritium sights have become popular recently and are a good, but expensive, option if you choose to replace your sights. There are also a variety of laser sights available. While some claim that these are the last word in combat sights, in truth they have their problems. They only work in dusk light or darker, they can be easily misaligned by a blow to the gun (depending on the mount), they are fairly expensive, and they are not a magic wand that allows the wielder to hit whatever he is pointing at. Laser sights can be a useful tool for training, and are desirable for police work and such, but for the average person they are an expensive "fun" option. Competition sights, such as red dot scopes, are not recommended for defensive use, as they limit the shooters vision and are intended for an entirely different purpose. Magazines and Speedloaders: If you own an autoloading pistol or rifle with a detachable magazine, you may wish to buy extra magazines. Although there are many companies that offer aftermarket magazines, it is often better to buy them from the manufacturer unless you know that the after-market magazine is of good quality. If you own a revolver, a speedloader can allow you to load all five or six chambers at once, instead of one or two at a time. Although these take some skill to use, they can be quite useful, and are relatively cheap (less than ten dollars). Although not necessary, they are recommended. Compensators: Compensators (ports cut into the barrel to bleed gas and produce an effect reducing felt recoil) have come into the mainstream in the past few years. At first, they were more of a gimmick but experience has shown that they can be quite useful. Some manufacturers have offered guns with integral compensators. A compensator can do a lot to lessen recoil, but at the price of somewhat lower bullet velocity and greater muzzle blast. Trigger job: The trigger job is the mainstay of the competition crowd. Unfortunately, it can also reduce the reliability of the weapon if performed by an inept gunsmith. Any gun you buy for defense should have a decent trigger pull out of the box; however, if the trigger on your gun is rough, you may want to look into having the trigger smoothed out. Extended safety, slide stop, etc: Again, these features generally cater to the competition people. In most cases these are unnecessary and make the gun bulky, but you may find that some aftermarket parts enhance your gun. If you are left-handed, and have a gun that is not ambidextrous then you may want to fit the gun with an ambidextrous safety. Always have these parts installed by a skilled gunsmith. 4) What training should I receive? First of all, you can just about ignore everything you have seen on TV about using a gun. Learning gun handling from TV is called tube training, and it is what gets most people in trouble. You don't blast away with reckless abandon. Unlike the movies, the bullets don't just disappear if they fail to hit the criminals; they can hit innocent people. Bullets can even go through criminals and hit people, a situation referred to as overpenetration. You can expect to be held liable for this. Also, in the movies the good guy's gun can fire as many shots as needed, regardless of its ammunition capacity. You don't have the luxury of multiple takes; pay attention to reality. In the movies, the bad guys all fall from immediately from a flurry of martial arts blows and a hail of gunfire, while the hero, if he does manage to get hit, takes a "flesh wound". In reality, criminals may not go down on the first shot, or the fifth, and you can be injured. Nobody is going to yell "Cut!" if you screw up, so learn real-life tactics. Realize that self-defense, armed or unarmed, is more than just fighting. To paraphrase the famous Chinese general Sun Tzu, if you know an enemy well you can fight a hundred battles without defeat. Self-defense actually breaks down into four categories; awareness, preparation, prevention, and combat. The first two are passive, the third is arguably active, and the fourth is active. AWARENESS means being aware of your situation. If you live in a bad neighborhood, take note. If you find yourself in a lonely part of town after midnight, don't linger, and be suspicious of shadows. Some people consider this being paranoid, but in reality, you are simply assessing your surroundings, in much the same way as any animal (such as a dog or a cat) would. By being aware, and projecting an aura of awareness, you can scare off attackers that are looking for soft, unaware targets. Most hoods are bullies that would rather take someone from behind than look their victims in the eye. PREPARATION means taking steps to be ready to defend yourself. Buying a gun, taking a self-defense class, and determining a defense strategy are all types of preparation. Anyone who refers to such actions as paranoid or "looking for trouble" is obviously unaware of the Boy Scout creed. By being prepared, you have the ability to deal with a situation on your terms instead of panicking. PREVENTION means convincing an attacker that you are a hard target. At home, outside lights, alarms, and other impediments are good. On the street, keep out of bad areas, don't walk in shadows or near bushes, and look aware. Prevention need not be as expensive as buying a major alarm system for your house; many cheap capacitance-type doorknob alarms and portable, battery operated motion sensors are just as good for the average person as a professionally h situations, there is no time to make moral judgements about the right or wrong of defending yourself -- your attitude must be prepared for well beforehand, internalized beyond doubt, and must be "him or me". If you are well-prepared, then the odds are you can defeat one or more opponents who are not prepared for resistance.